Continuing on with cyanotypes I have been adjusting the negative over the last few days. Incidentally, this photo was taken on a Bronica ETRSI using Ilford fp4+ film developed in Paranol S and printed on Ilford classic fibre based paper.

To produce the negative for cyanotype the print was scanned into the mac via my Epson V600 300DPI, rescaled and saved as a Tiff. General adjustments to levels and brightness were then made in Photoshop CC  followed by bringing in both ends of the contrast levels before it was flipped and inverted via an adjustment layer to reveal the negative. A new fill layer followed adjusted to make a UV blocker of amber colour. A new curves layer was then added increasing the contrast for this particular image until I felt it was correct. This part needs to be done for each image individually. the negative was then printed on my Epson R3000 onto Agfa copyjet film sheet at A4 size.

fullsizeoutput_1c8f

As can be seen here the highlights are not correct so a further negative was made with adjustments. The darkness to the right lower corner is more to do with shadow over the photo taken on my iphone than the image itself as the print was still drying on my racks at the time it was taken.

fullsizeoutput_1c90

This second cyanotype was a 170-second exposure and was toned in green tea for 25minutes after a wash, bleach, wash cycle. This seems to be nearer in terms of highlights, especially where water is involved and the toning is a quite pleasing colour.

The settings used here in the curves layer has been saved and will be used as the bases for adjustments in future cyano prints involving water. I have also saved info on the various papers I have used during these prints so I now have an exposure chart for the papers.

 

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